Post by rcrallyfan on Dec 21, 2008 7:43:48 GMT -5
A few important tips before you attempt to drive your buggy, or for that matter, other FS large scale model, right out of the box. DON'T.
There are a number of things you need to check/do before starting it up.
1. Radio gear - I never intended to run the model with the stock radio, even though coming from the German market, as mine did, it had a 40 MHz FM set (without failsafe though - that would be an extra option - in fact a must it you plan to use the stock radio gear). I wouldn't use anything less than a 2.4 GHz (DSM) system (failsafe built in). Remember this a 12+ kilo object capable of moving at over 80 km/h. So the stock radio goes for sale right away - recovered me some €30
. In went my Spektrum receiver. Of course, the failsafe function was adjusted to ensure closing the throttle and locking the brakes in case of signal or power failure.
2. Servo adjustment - although the model is assembled pretty well, you never expect an RTR to be actually READY in terms of adjustment. The steering linkage required only moderate intervention, however the throttle/brake servo setup was entirely unusable. In stock condition, the servo was able to open only about half the throttle, and the brakes never engaged at all. It is easy to see the conclusions, if not consequences, that an inexperienced user would come to: "the model is slow and has no brakes". I guess that's what we see on some of the YouTube videos.
In fact, it was necessary to replace the throttle/brake servo horn - the stock horn was too small to physically operate the throttle and brake effectively. Following replacement with a larger horn and proper adjustment - the servo now opens the throttle all the way and promptly and effectively engages the brakes - the car being 4WD brakes like a dream - the brakes work on all 4 wheels via the drive-train just as on any 1:10 4WD - no need for expensive optional disk brakes...
It is not a must, but recommended - add another steering servo (as MCD, the chassis comes ready for dual steering servos. This not only enhances steering power and response, it also gets rid of most of the steering system play. The play comes from the system being designed for two servos in the first place.
3. Air filter - this is an off-road vehicle, so it is exposed to all the dust, sand, gravel, mud, snow and whatever you care to put in its path. It NEEDS an air filter, which the stock thing attached to the carb IS NOT. All it can do is quickly kill your engine by letting abrasive particles into the cylinder. You don't want that. So you get rid of it and replace with a real thing - at least a two-stage foam filter with a metal housing or a lifetime cone like the K&N. However, the latter is not advisable if you operate the car routinely in heavily dusty conditions. For the same reasons, taking regular good care (cleaning/washing & oiling) of the air filter is advisable.
Above is an Outerwears prefilter on a two-stage foam filter with a metal case.
I also put an Outerwears sleeve on the pullstart cover:
4. Assembly - I found the overall quality of material and build quite good, nevertheless a new model should always be checked for any loose/missing screws and bolts. Mine had one screw missing among those attaching the shock tower to the rear differential housing, however all other screws and bolts were tight; the latter all have self-locking nuts. I like to replace most with stainless steel ones, but there is no pressing need for this. I just don't like rust showing after I pressure-wash the car...
5. English language instructions - this is rubbish, newbies should not even read it. Not only badly translated from (probably) Chinese, but also contains dangerous nonsense, e.g. about using nitro fuel in the car - apparently they took instructions from a smaller scale nitro and forgot to adapt to the gas model. We all know this, but let's say it nonetheless: you DO NOT use nitro fuel in this or any gas powered car: USE unleaded gasoline/petrol from your local filling station, mixed with a full or semi synthetic two-stroke oil, ideally that for two-stroke motorcycle engines also available from your gas station. The proportion is 25:1, which means you add 20 cc of oil to a half liter of gas and mix it well (shake) in a bottle (they supply one with the model) before pouring it in the tank. I use a large syringe with cc marked on it to measure the oil dose.
6. Make sure the fuel lines do not touch the exhaust, it obviously gets hot, so it is not a good idea. I used some plastic bands to restrain the lines to the roll-cage and so keep them away fom the exhaust.
There are a number of things you need to check/do before starting it up.
1. Radio gear - I never intended to run the model with the stock radio, even though coming from the German market, as mine did, it had a 40 MHz FM set (without failsafe though - that would be an extra option - in fact a must it you plan to use the stock radio gear). I wouldn't use anything less than a 2.4 GHz (DSM) system (failsafe built in). Remember this a 12+ kilo object capable of moving at over 80 km/h. So the stock radio goes for sale right away - recovered me some €30
. In went my Spektrum receiver. Of course, the failsafe function was adjusted to ensure closing the throttle and locking the brakes in case of signal or power failure. 2. Servo adjustment - although the model is assembled pretty well, you never expect an RTR to be actually READY in terms of adjustment. The steering linkage required only moderate intervention, however the throttle/brake servo setup was entirely unusable. In stock condition, the servo was able to open only about half the throttle, and the brakes never engaged at all. It is easy to see the conclusions, if not consequences, that an inexperienced user would come to: "the model is slow and has no brakes". I guess that's what we see on some of the YouTube videos.
In fact, it was necessary to replace the throttle/brake servo horn - the stock horn was too small to physically operate the throttle and brake effectively. Following replacement with a larger horn and proper adjustment - the servo now opens the throttle all the way and promptly and effectively engages the brakes - the car being 4WD brakes like a dream - the brakes work on all 4 wheels via the drive-train just as on any 1:10 4WD - no need for expensive optional disk brakes...
It is not a must, but recommended - add another steering servo (as MCD, the chassis comes ready for dual steering servos. This not only enhances steering power and response, it also gets rid of most of the steering system play. The play comes from the system being designed for two servos in the first place.
3. Air filter - this is an off-road vehicle, so it is exposed to all the dust, sand, gravel, mud, snow and whatever you care to put in its path. It NEEDS an air filter, which the stock thing attached to the carb IS NOT. All it can do is quickly kill your engine by letting abrasive particles into the cylinder. You don't want that. So you get rid of it and replace with a real thing - at least a two-stage foam filter with a metal housing or a lifetime cone like the K&N. However, the latter is not advisable if you operate the car routinely in heavily dusty conditions. For the same reasons, taking regular good care (cleaning/washing & oiling) of the air filter is advisable.
Above is an Outerwears prefilter on a two-stage foam filter with a metal case.
I also put an Outerwears sleeve on the pullstart cover:
4. Assembly - I found the overall quality of material and build quite good, nevertheless a new model should always be checked for any loose/missing screws and bolts. Mine had one screw missing among those attaching the shock tower to the rear differential housing, however all other screws and bolts were tight; the latter all have self-locking nuts. I like to replace most with stainless steel ones, but there is no pressing need for this. I just don't like rust showing after I pressure-wash the car...
5. English language instructions - this is rubbish, newbies should not even read it. Not only badly translated from (probably) Chinese, but also contains dangerous nonsense, e.g. about using nitro fuel in the car - apparently they took instructions from a smaller scale nitro and forgot to adapt to the gas model. We all know this, but let's say it nonetheless: you DO NOT use nitro fuel in this or any gas powered car: USE unleaded gasoline/petrol from your local filling station, mixed with a full or semi synthetic two-stroke oil, ideally that for two-stroke motorcycle engines also available from your gas station. The proportion is 25:1, which means you add 20 cc of oil to a half liter of gas and mix it well (shake) in a bottle (they supply one with the model) before pouring it in the tank. I use a large syringe with cc marked on it to measure the oil dose.
6. Make sure the fuel lines do not touch the exhaust, it obviously gets hot, so it is not a good idea. I used some plastic bands to restrain the lines to the roll-cage and so keep them away fom the exhaust.
