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Post by rcrallyfan on Feb 4, 2009 10:56:27 GMT -5
Went out for a spin yesterday and for no obvious reason the adjustment screw got ripped out of the inner rose joint on the rear wheel connecting link, the one in the photo (already fixed):  This time I managed to salvage the link by readjusting the screw, but some of the plastic thread is gone so next time will be the last for the rose joint. These rose joints take 6 mm screws, all FS/Carson joints I have around take 8 mm screws. Are there any better 6 mm rose joints available? Or any recommended upgrade on this? |
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sickboy
Full Member
hey hook me up with another fs www.fshopups.com
Posts: 187
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Post by sickboy on Feb 4, 2009 11:22:56 GMT -5
hi yes that can be a pain in the ass well what you could do is use fg steel rose joint i want to do this to but i need to save the money before i can go out and buy all the joints that i need
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Post by fsmt4wd on Feb 4, 2009 13:08:06 GMT -5
does your car squat alot on full throttle? i noticed that happening on my MT , i used a second arm at the back, and adjusted my suspension, get the red mcd rose joints or the lauterbacher ones
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Post by 338lapua on Feb 6, 2009 23:00:17 GMT -5
hi all I had the same problem with threaded joint failure . so far i just epoxy them with [ j-b weld ] and it is holding up so far. the truck really rolls awsome when they pull apart .
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Post by rcrallyfan on Feb 23, 2009 7:47:12 GMT -5
Took steering rods off the Spider/Attack car and applied them to double the rods on the rear suspension to make the design stronger. The rods are too short to fix them to the free hole in the chassis towards the rear, so I needed to use longer bolts mounting the lower A-arms and attach the new rods there:  So far works fine. Will be ordering another pair of original rods, as they are longer, and for symmetry's sake  |
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Post by Racingmule on Apr 26, 2009 3:00:19 GMT -5
I had a similar problem with mine, the rods were winding in (toe-in) by themselves so i put a locknut on the rod.  |
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