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Post by rallyfinnen on Mar 15, 2009 8:35:36 GMT -5
Hi all! Recorded my first test drive and put together a video on youtube: www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5iUuM5HkDMCurrently running with one steering servo, and had no problems with it on the loose gravel on the yard. Pulled the threads out of a plastic ball joint later after touching the wall in a drift.. well I have replacements :-)
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Post by fsmt4wd on Mar 15, 2009 12:35:03 GMT -5
cool video, is it a 2wd? seems to be flying around that yard, nice work
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Post by rallyfinnen on Mar 15, 2009 13:23:20 GMT -5
Yeah, it's a 2wd.. thinking about an upgrade, but the 4wd kits are not cheap.. Pretty pleased with the performance of the engine so far, having some carb-issues at the moment though. Was not flowing enough fuel, had the H needle all the way out on the video, and the L was out as much as possible without flooding the engine on low revs. There was no way I could get the engine to '4-stroke' on high revs! I did some drilling in the carb, will see if i get it to work..
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Post by fsmt4wd on Mar 15, 2009 14:41:54 GMT -5
i would get the 4wd conversion, otherwise you will be stripping diff gears in no time..
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Post by fsmt4wd on Mar 15, 2009 14:42:24 GMT -5
the stock fs engine carb are not so good, best replace it with a walbro
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Post by rallyfinnen on Mar 16, 2009 5:28:28 GMT -5
hi fsmt4wd
I think the carb is ok now, did a quick test a while ago, but will need some more testing and tuning to confirm it. Drilled out the fuel channels all the way to the HS needle and from that out to the 'throat' of the carb, opening them up to 1,5mm. I had to reshape the needle to adapt it to the lager hole too.
So diffs are that weak? Would that be the rear diff then? Are the main gears or the small gears inside the diff the weakest point? If i convert it to 4wd i think there will be more load on the main gears and center diff since grip/torque in the drivetrain increases, but the rear diff would share the torque with the front diff, and that should make life a little easier for it..
I reinforced the rear diff housing and adjusted the clearance of the gears, and put grease in the housing and FG diff grease in the diff as recommended.
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Post by fsmt4wd on Mar 16, 2009 7:43:31 GMT -5
the pins are weak in the diffs, see if you can get the titanium grade 5 pins, the diffs work best when full with fg grease and you need to maintain them every few tanks.. this car was made to be 4wd as MCD never made a 2wd drive line, thats just FS way of cutting costs. so yes you will divide the load if you install a front diff.
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Post by rallyfinnen on Mar 16, 2009 7:56:05 GMT -5
Hmm.. don't like the idea of having to do maintainance on it that often, so much work involved in taking the diff apart, and messing with the diff oil etc.. I wonder if it would be possible to fit a FG diff or similar instead..? Or is the diameter too large?
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Post by fsmt4wd on Mar 16, 2009 13:29:14 GMT -5
if you have a filling hole then its not so bad to maintain, only after every 5 tanks or so, the more the better imo. i just refilled my front diff and it only took a few minutes.. fg diffs dont fit.. a option would be the mcd LSD diffs,but they come at a big price... the design of the mcd/fs diff gears is really bad and its the worst link in these cars in my opnion, we will see what the mars diffs can do..time will tell
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Post by rallyfinnen on Apr 4, 2009 15:25:33 GMT -5
Been doing a lot of driving (and repairs too) today. Beautiful spring weather here today, so I had to make the most of it! First i broke a front lower wishbone, and later a front shock fork. Made new ones from steel. Yesterday the big bearing on the pinion shaft went bad. Balls fell out of the bearing..never expected the big bearing to fail, thought the small one would go first.. Have the sealed bearings kit on the way, but got replaced the broken one with a sealed SKF bearing. If that one fails, nothing else will last either! :-) Best possible quality. Seems a lot of time and interest is needed to keep the car rolling.. think i spent 80% of the time fixing it, and 20% driving this far.. a lot of weaknesses to sort out. Here is a short video from when i demonstrated the car in the horse paddock next to a friends house: www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJkZzKVqtKM
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Post by fsmt4wd on Apr 5, 2009 3:06:00 GMT -5
the bearings are poor quality and if ya smack a fence with a mcd they break too..lol.. i have not had problems with bearings since i replaced them with skf sealed bearings. like most largescale rc's they need to be serviced regulary, once the teething issues have been sorted it is alot of fun, the 4wd conversion is a must IMO. my truck is always in pieces, takes me 10 min to put back together lol..can do it with my eyes close.. nice vid btw, pitty about the fence pole..
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Post by rallyfinnen on Apr 5, 2009 10:29:50 GMT -5
Yeah, the pole did what I expected :-) I have not mentioned many of the other small issues I'm having, one example is the drive cups at the diff. The tolerances are so poor that they are way off center when tightened with the single locking screw. There is a play of maybe 0,4mm before tightening them down. For some reason they are working themselves loose even if loctite the screws. The screw is not coming loose, but it seems the cups are working themselves loose because of the bad fit. Wearing down the end of the screw, and maybe some on the hex shaft too. Why not use the same kind of system as for the main gears? And with two screws on opposite sides of the cups, like on the FG gears i installed. Really annoying, because there is nothing to do about the bad tolerances on the hex shafts.. Well, possibly drilling&threading the cups and putting in two more locking screws in each cup.. three on each should do the job, maybe.. Sorry, I'm a bit negative at the moment..
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Post by fsmt4wd on Apr 5, 2009 11:40:04 GMT -5
you need to file the bottom of the set screw so its sits flat, and then if you have the right tools(which im sure you do, you need to grind/drill a a groove into the hex so the set screw sits in the groove..
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Post by rallyfinnen on Apr 5, 2009 12:02:40 GMT -5
Yep, did that, but does not seem to help.
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hoppy
Junior Member
BlownClone
Posts: 69
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Post by hoppy on Apr 9, 2009 20:57:54 GMT -5
In the uni drive cups for the 2 centre drive shafts running to front and rear diffs, i cut a very small piece of fuel hose and used it as a centering/soft damper for the freeplay issue. Place the piece in the cup, then slide the dog bone into the cup, squeezing the tube piece. Make sure the tube offcut piece is not too thick otherwise obviously there will be too much pressure against the diff bearings etc. It took me a few times to get the right thickness. works a treat for me, got the idea off another forum ;D
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